Packing up our bags in Lahore on the 4th of September, the last day of our Pakistani visa, we headed to the border of India.
Only a days ride to the city of Amritsar on the Indian side, we managed to file us and our bikes through customs and out onto the smooth tarmac which runs to the Sikh’s holiest city. Arriving in India was strange for the both of us, having been to the golden temple and Amritsar before on our first journey together in India almost seven years ago, it all seemed far too familiar, cows sitting in the middle of a round-about, cycle rickshaws running over your toes (to which Tim and i couldn’t resist the opportunity of ridding) and of course Chai on every corner .
We spent just two days in Amritsar before making our way back north into the foothills of the Himalaya, visiting the old hill stations of the British Raj, starting with McCloud Ganj. Now more famous for the Dalai Lama and the Tibetan Govertment in Exile in India than its previous occupants, we were slightly overwhelmed by the amount of tourist development. Westerners flocking in there droves to learn Meditation and the history of Tibetan culture, plus like us to dine on the odd Chocolate banana pancake or two and something which Tim enjoyed Korean food!!!.
It was a pleasant change to see a different type of religion other than Islam which had been dominant for a majority of our trip. Stupas, prayer wheels and Monks in red robes lined the streets.
Enjoying the tourist cafe’s and bakerys, we finally pulled ourselves away and continued on towards Shimla, summer capital of the British Raj . The ride was anything but easy, but along the way we broke up the journey by visiting a number of small temples dedicated to Sati the wife of Shiva, who “apparently” exploded into a thousand pieces and was then scattered across northern India. It reminded me why travelling by bike is a real pleasure even in the hustle and bustle of India, away from the tourist temples nobody asks for money and the welcome is more than generous, although we did have to pose for one too many photos including holding people’s newly born children.
After sleeping on the floor of a restaurant having failed to find a hotel the previous night, we had a long 65km climb up to the 2200m ridge upon which the British created the small village of Shimla in the style of their homeland. Small summer houses dotted the hillside among pine tress and meadows. Today it is anything but a small village, packed with local tourist’s coming from Delhi and Chandigarh to escape the summer heat. We Spent our days wandering the old Colonial building’s and escaping the equally British weather. The old Theater which dominated the center of town was like a time capsule transporting us back to the 1900′s. Given a tour in the morning we were invited back in the evening to watch a play. Although in Hindi the feeling of watching a play in such a grand building was majestic.
Rolling again back down the hill, we headed toward Derra dunn, again another strategic point of the Government of the British Empire and sadly the last few hundred kilometers that Tim and I would cycle together. Arriving after a few brief stops in a number of small Sikh and Hindu temples, it felt strange knowing that we wouldn’t be cycling out of this town together.
Starting the journey one year ago, the two of us had no idea how it would end or continue but, it became clear a few months ago that we didn’t want to carry on after India, when we heard that there was an opportunity to live with our closest friends back in Brighton come 2012. Naturally of course we would have liked to ridden together until we headed home but with new Visa regulations in India, to which i wont go into and our parents coming out to see us in various points we had no choice but to part ways.
Reflecting back on one year on the road with Tim, i still cant gather and process the whole thing of what we have done since pedaling out of Steyning on our two humble bikes. The crisp warm days rolling through France with Rob and Rex, Cold nights in Eastern Europe, Surprising Russ by watching Galatasry in Istanbul, pushing cars through snow in Lebanon, Running a marathon in Egypt, finding unexpected wonders in Oman, making new friends in Iran, long hungry days of wilderness in Kazakhstan, Experiencing the toughness of altitude cycling in the pamir’s, Sufi dancing in Pakistan and now the task of trying to comprehend that we actually did it. 19,000km, 23 countries and world of memories.
So whats next??? well its now family time!!!, Tim has gone to enjoy the tropical island vibes of Sri Lanka in pursuit of a new Visa, before returning to meet Alec (his brother) for a months cycling in southern India and for myself? ive just watched as England get trounced by India in the 2nd and 3rd ODI with my Farther before i cycle up to Nepal for a bit of trekking with my Mum.
I will update this blog with my trekking exploits in the mountains of Nepal in a few weeks time!!
