Leaving the comfort of our first warm shower’s experience with clean bikes and clean clothes we felt refreshed to tackle the last leg of Europe. The forecast was spectacular, sunshine all the way and warm temperatures rising all the time.
We headed south out of Sofia, dodging cars and trucks, making our way along the side road of the main motorway before turning up into the mountains. Winter had arrived as trees took their skeleton form, appearing exhausted from the presentation of their Autumn leaves. We planned to split the remaining distance into 80km day’s, so as not to arrive in Istanbul before Russ arrived. Afternoons were spent relaxing in numerous fields, enjoying a strong brew and a meal cooked with local produce bought from local markets which dotted the roadside.
After a quick dip into Greece and 4 days cycling we hit Turkey, literally face first. With our first proper visa stamped into our passports, it was as if we had flown to some far off exotic destination. Islamic architecture dominated the sky line as we made our way across ornate cobblestones bridges and into the small city of Edirne. After a spur of the moment decision, we grabbed a cheap hotel with heaps of character, as an almost entire family tree hung in picture frames around the reception desk some dating back to 1926.
Heading out for a walk, the smell of Kabab grills wafted a smoke-filled aroma through out the market place. We stopped for numerous glasses of tea and small bites to eat before heading to the magnificent mosque which sat high in the centre of the city. Appearing no less grand than its Istanbul counterparts, its grand beauty was felt in a slightly less crowded form than those we would visit in the coming days.
Upon leaving the city the following morning we were waved over by a group of pannier laden cyclist, who were waiting in the car park of one of the many industrial buildings dotted along the highway. They were the Edirne cyclist club and were about to start their sunday cycle and seeing as we were heading in the same direction we were invited along.
Wine tasting was this weeks activity, which seemed a good idea but i was slightly more concerned how the return leg was going to fare. We took up the kind offer by one of the members named Okay to stay at his place if we came along for the whole day. 60km later we arrived at the infamous and at times elusive winery, ready with slightly hungry bellies to taste some Turkish wine. Neither of us being experts, we looked professional with a quick circular motion followed by a sniff before tasting then “delicious” – well that’s what they do on tele isn’t it?? No it was really good!! Turkish wine get the bicycleadventure Thumbs up!!
A quick bite to eat and we were heading back to Edirne but having arrived almost 4 hours late to the winery, meant we were behind on time and the sun was beginning to set. 40km to go and darkness was only minutes away and with neither of us having lights, the rough roads proved a tad too dangerous so we politely said to the others we would camp for the night. Our departure was greeted with hugs and handshakes as we bidded fare-well to our cycling friends who sped off into the night.
We kept the rest the ride into Istanbul as simple as possible following one of the main roads into the centre, but upon reaching the suburbs and big name brand outlets the spaghetti junctions of death which lay before us felt almost un-conquerable, until we found a convenient cycle path probably the only one in the city.
Arriving 4 days before our new arrival, ment Tim and I could fit in a spot of training for Egypt popping in a few longer runs along the harbour, plus investigating our Syrian visa. Arriving early at the consulate we were duly turned away as only Turkish residence were being granted them, and the answer “Border maybe”.
Cycling to the airport on the day of Russell’s arrival we were eager to meet up. On time and bike in tact we headed back to the Hostel in Sulatanhament. A quick turn around was needed, with Russ’s birthday a few weeks before plus the shear effort of him coming to see us we thought we would surprise him with a small gift. Hurridly, and without appearing suspicious, we were out the door and were heading on the tram to Medcidiyekoy. Running late, we shoved money into machines in exchange for travel tokens but it felt like a waste of time and time wasnt what we had. “Taxi!!” Tim distracted Russ whilst i gave away our destination to our driver, 10 minutes late we arrived at our surprise venue The Al Sami Yen stadium with Russ saying “Oh looks like there’s a game on” Galatasary shirt in hand i passed it to him before Tim and I unzipped our fleeces, His face lit up like the floodlights which hung from the packed terraces, we were soon emerged in a sea of red and yellow with an atmosphere which would drown even 2 english stadiums.
The crowd gave their all but Galatasaray barely turned up with top names like Harry Kewel being Subbed by the legend of the Sami Yen, Gheorghe Hagi. The “Boys of Hell” went down 2-0 against Manisaspor, to which the fans let the board know in true Turkish football fan style their frustration. Chairs were thrown down to the pitch and shirts burned in the stands.
It was a great way to start our month as three. Having grown up together in our small village we could have never dreamt that at this age we would still be sharing such good times.
We are now moving across Turkey towards Syria and Lebanon to where we will pop up our next update.
All the best!!
Dan, Tim and new signing Russ.
